Slideshow for Trip to Lithuania, June

20190626_203727 Soviet soda machine An old Soviet soda machine, now used as a decoration / museum piece at the Belmontas restaurant. Click to read more about it. Date: 06/26/2019 An old Soviet soda machine, now used as a decoration / museum piece at the Belmontas restaurant. The sign says:

"We invite you to take a short trip to the past and try a glass of cold beverage! Insert a 1 Euro coin and make your choice. The middle one is sparkling water with fruit syrup. Thank you for visiting Belmontas!"

The left button dispenses sparkling water with "citrus syrup". The the right one is for plain sparkling water. I guess those two buttons were not operational.

I remember seeing soda machines like this one in many public places, such as grocery stores. Water with syrup used to cost 3 kopecks (1/100th of a ruble), plain water 1 kopeck.

The glass that's sitting in the machine is also authentic. Every soda machine came with a glass -- yes, just one. Sometimes it was chained to the machine to keep it from being stolen. And yes, everybody drank from it, despite there being no adequate way to sanitize it. The metal "plate" to the right was where you could attempt to wash the glass, but it was hardly sufficient. You would put the glass upside-down on the plate and press it. Water would squirt from around the plate and kind of "wash" the rim of the glass, but it was just plain cold water with no soap. So you couldn't even dream of disinfecting the drinking vessel before use. Yet thousands of strangers shared it every day without stopping to think about it.

20190626_230959 Soviet soda machine masquerading as Pepsi vending machine Another take on Soviet soda machines (the first one was in the previous image). Painted red and with a Pepsi logo crudely painted on it, it sits in the Snekutis bar in Vilnius downtown as a tongue-in-cheek commentary on Lithuania's Soviet past. Date: 06/26/2019 That's another take on Soviet soda machines (the first one was in the previous image). Painted red and with a Pepsi logo crudely painted on it, it sits in the Snekutis bar in Vilnius downtown as a tongue-in-cheek commentary on Lithuania's Soviet past and its subsequent alignment with the West (Or at least that's my interpretation.)

Soda machines like this one used to be in many public places up until the late 80s or early 90s. You would insert a coin and press one of the three buttons to make your selection: sparking water with citrus syrup, fruit syrup, or no flavoring. The kicker was that everybody drank from just one glass that came with the machine: disposable cups were unheard of back then on the other side of the Iron Curtain. There was no proper way to sanitize it before drinking, but strangers shared it without a second thought.

20190626_203526 R at the Belmontas water wheel R dabbing (it's how he poses for every picture) at the water wheel at the Belmontas restaurant. The restaurant is a little like a theme park with buildings that evoke castles and rustic shacks. Date: 06/26/2019 R dabbing (it's how he poses for every picture) at the water wheel at the Belmontas restaurant. The restaurant is a little like a theme park with buildings that evoke castles and rustic shacks.

June 2019

20190627_221752 A metal sculpture in a Vilnius steampunk bar A metal sculpture in a Vilnius steampunk bar Variokas ("Copper Coin"). It's amazing that a city the size of Vilnius can support a steampunk bar, while Austin, at four times the size, could not sustain one for more than a couple of years. Date: 06/27/2019 A metal sculpture in a Vilnius steampunk bar Variokas ("Copper Coin"). It's amazing that a city the size of Vilnius can support a steampunk bar, while Austin, at four times the size, could not sustain one for more than a couple of years.

The bar is very close to where I lived as a child. Back then I used to explore the basements and secret passages between the apartment houses in my neighborhood. If my childhood self only knew that a basement right next door will one day contain such wonders, her mind would be blown.

20190627_222115 A robot cranking a gramophone in a Vilnius steampunk bar A robot hand-cranking a gramophone sits in a vault in a Vilnius steampunk bar Variokas ("Copper Coin"). Date: 06/27/2019 A robot hand-cranking a gramophone sits in a vault in a Vilnius steampunk bar Variokas ("Copper Coin"). It's amazing that a city the size of Vilnius can support a steampunk bar, while Austin, at four times the size, could not sustain one for more than a couple of years.

The bar is very close to where I lived as a child. Back then I used to explore the basements and secret passages between the apartment houses in my neighborhood. If my childhood self only knew that a basement right next door will one day contain such wonders, her mind would be blown.

20190629_112900 Needlework "greeting cards" sent by political prisoners Embroidered "greeting cards" sent by political prisoners during the first few years of Soviet occupation of Lithuania with messages expressing hope for eventual freedom of Lithuania. Date: 06/29/2019 This was my second visit -- this time I took my 14-year-old along -- to the museum that was previously known as the Genocide Victims' Museum, but is now called Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights. The "Occupations" refer to the years between 1940 and 1991 when Lithuania was occupied by the Soviet Union. "Freedom Fights" refers to the 9-year-long (1944 - 1953) partisan war against the occupants.

The museum is located in the former KGB prison where the KGB jailed, interrogated, and executed dissidents and freedom fighters.

These embroidered "greeting cards" were sent by political prisoners during the first few years of the Soviet occupation of Lithuania.

The top ones were sent by one woman political prisoner to another:

"Life is a sea, don't drown in it"

"Life is suffering"

"Through troubles and suffering into the bright future"

The two pieces of needlework at the bottom were made by a male political prisoner as a gift to a female friend. The left one, referring to the deportations of hundreds of thousands of Lithuanians to Siberia, says:

"Remember not me but our enslaved fatherland and brothers that suffer in Siberia and call for freedom."

20190629_114536 Solitary confinement in water Cells for solitary confinement in water in the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights. Click the image to read more. Date: 06/29/2019 This was my second visit -- this time I took my 14-year-old along -- to the museum that was previously known as the Genocide Victims' Museum, but is now called Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights. The "Occupations" refer to the years between 1940 and 1991 when Lithuania was occupied by the Soviet Union. "Freedom Fights" refers to the 9-year-long (1944 - 1953) partisan war against the occupants.

The museum is located in the former KGB prison where the KGB jailed, interrogated, and executed dissidents and freedom fighters. The prison cells are now part of the exhibit.

Just like the ordinary solitary confinement cells, these cells were used to discipline the inmates, but here the conditions were even more terrible. To quote the official description, "Inmates had to either stand in ice-cold water (or on ice in winter) or to balance on a low small round platform in the middle of the floor. They would fall into the water every time they lost their balance."

These cells were built in 1945. In the 1950s they were turned into a medical room and a prison library. The cells were partially restored in 1996, after the building had been turned into the museum.

20190629_115020 Shoes of the executed dissidents in the KGB museum Under the glass floor of the execution chamber you can see the original floor covered with sand. Here, in the antechamber, is a collection of shoes that the dissidents and freedom fighters had to remove before being shot. Date: 06/29/2019 Under the glass floor of the execution chamber you can see the original floor covered with sand -- I'm not sure if the sand was there back when the death sentences were carried out here, and was it to absorb the blood of the executed? (The method of the execution was a gunshot.) Here, in the antechamber, is a collection of shoes that the dissidents and freedom fighters had to remove before being shot.

This was my second visit -- this time I took my 14-year-old along -- to the museum that was previously known as the Genocide Victims' Museum, but is now called Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights. The "Occupations" refer to the years between 1940 and 1991 when Lithuania was occupied by the Soviet Union. "Freedom Fights" refers to the 9-year-long (1944 - 1953) partisan war against the occupants.

The museum is located in the former KGB prison where the KGB jailed, interrogated, and executed dissidents and freedom fighters. The prison cells are now part of the exhibit.

20190629_115040 A hole in a wall of the execution chamber A hole in a wall of the execution chamber. There was no explanation of what it was for, but you have to wonder if this was the hole from which a fatal shot was administered to the inmates. Date: 06/29/2019 This was my second visit -- this time I took my 14-year-old along -- to the museum that was previously known as the Genocide Victims' Museum, but is now called Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights. The "Occupations" refer to the years between 1940 and 1991 when Lithuania was occupied by the Soviet Union. "Freedom Fights" refers to the 9-year-long (1944 - 1953) partisan war against the occupants.

The museum is located in the former KGB prison where the KGB jailed, interrogated, and executed dissidents and freedom fighters. The prison cells are now part of the exhibit. This is the chamber where death sentences were carried out.

20190629_132814 E in Vilnius Cat Cafe Revisiting the Cat Cafe, which has moved into new quarters since 2016 in a more posh, prime retail location. At least some of the cats in it are still the same as 2016. Date: 06/29/2019 Revisiting the Cat Cafe, which has moved into new quarters since 2016 in a more posh, prime retail location. At least some of the cats in it are still the same as 2016. It's always a pleasant experience to visit the Cat Cafe, although, for a cafe aimed at animal lovers, there are hardly any vegetarian options on the menu.

20190629_133044 R makes victory sign over a cat At the Vilnius Cat Cafe R makes victory sign over a cat, who doesn't even know she's been conquered. Date: 06/29/2019 At the Vilnius Cat Cafe R makes victory sign over a cat, who doesn't even know she's been conquered.

20190629_133257 R makes victory sign over an orange cat At the Vilnius Cat Cafe R makes victory sign over an orange cat, who doesn't even know she's been conquered. Date: 06/29/2019 At the Vilnius Cat Cafe R makes victory sign over an orange cat, who doesn't even know she's been conquered.

20190630_023830 Cat sleeping under a tree in Palanga A neighbor's white cat sleeping under an old tree in my parents' yard in Palanga. It was around 2 a.m. when we came in and saw a pale white blob under the tree; at first I thought it was just a random play of light. Date: 06/30/2019 A neighbor's white cat sleeping under an old tree in my parents' yard in Palanga. It was around 2 a.m. when we came in and saw a pale white blob under the tree; at first I thought it was just a random play of light. But when I came closer, I saw a face of a curled-up cat, which you can just barely make out in the picture.

20190630_201015 The neighbors cat in Palanga Neighbor's white cat Apolonija is visiting our yard. It's the same cat that was sleeping under an old tree in our yard in the previous image. Date: 06/30/2019 Neighbor's white cat Apolonija is visiting our yard. It's the same cat that was sleeping under an old tree in our yard in the previous image.

June 2019

20190630_220610 Sunset seen from Palanga pier Watching the Sun go down into the sea from the Palanga pier is a daily ritual for many tourists. So I talked E and R into going to see it too, and they were, of course, duly unimpressed. Date: 06/30/2019 Watching the Sun go down into the sea from the Palanga pier is a daily ritual for many tourists. So I talked E and R into going to see it too, and they were, of course, duly unimpressed.

June 2019

20190630_222607 Sunset seen from Palanga pier A sliver of the Sun setting into the Baltic sea is still visible above the horizon. Watching the Sun go down from the Palanga pier is a daily ritual for many tourists, such as this stranger whose silhouette I accidentally captured. Date: 06/30/2019 A small sliver of the Sun setting into the Baltic sea is still visible above the horizon. Watching the Sun go down from the Palanga pier is a daily ritual for many tourists, such as this random stranger whose silhouette I accidentally captured.

June 2019

20190701_170020 Building sand castles at the Palanga pier R builds sand castles at the Palanga pier Date: 07/01/2019 R builds sand castles at the Palanga pier

July 2019

20190701_210820 Smoked octopus In Palanga and everywhere along the Baltic coast, there are smoked fish stands where you can buy many kinds of smoked fish. We got this delicious smoked octopus. Date: 07/01/2019 In Palanga and everywhere along the Baltic coast, there are smoked fish stands where you can buy many kinds of smoked fish. We got this delicious smoked octopus.

July 2019

20190702_154655 The reading room in Palanga I took R and Ray to the reading room in Palanga to show them the place where I spent many a delightful rainy summer days as a child. It's is like a library, but you can only read the books inside. Yes, that's a tree growing through the roof. Date: 07/02/2019 I took R and Ray to the reading room in Palanga to show them the place where I spent many a delightful rainy summer days as a child. The reading room is like a library (in fact, it is part of the Lithuanian National Library), except you can't take books outside. You can only read them on premises. This was the place where I devoured most of the science fiction books that were published in Lithuanian (back then that was a pretty small number, thus manageable to finish in a summer or two - depending on how many rainy days there were). Just like nothing of value was available to purchase in a store in Soviet times, those books were not available in bookstores. But the reading room had them, and so it remains a locus of my fondest childhood memories.

I always liked its wavy wood ceiling - in fact, wooden plank decor is very common in most buildings in Palanga - and yes, that's a tree growing through the roof.

July 2019

20190702_160841 Chess in Palanga reading room Ray and R play chess in the reading room in Palanga Date: 07/02/2019 Ray and R play chess in the reading room in Palanga

I took R and Ray to the reading room in Palanga to show them the place where I spent many a delightful rainy summer days as a child. The reading room is like a library (in fact, it is part of the Lithuanian National Library), except you can't take books outside. You can only read them on premises. This was the place where I devoured most of the science fiction books that were published in Lithuanian (back then that was a pretty small number, thus manageable to finish in a summer or two - depending on how many rainy days there were). Just like nothing of value was available to purchase in a store in Soviet times, those books were not available in bookstores. But the reading room had them, and so it remains a locus of my fondest childhood memories.

I always liked its wavy wood ceiling - in fact, wooden plank decor is very common in most buildings in Palanga - and yes, that's a tree growing through the roof.

July 2019

20190703_132549 Angry tree at Vejukai sees the visitors off A tree trunk with a watchful face and its arms on its sides sees the visitors off. The Vejukai cafe is at the intersection of two main highways of Lithuania and is famous for its fried dumplings ("koldunai"). Date: 07/03/2019 A tree trunk with a watchful face and its arms on its sides sees the visitors off. The Vejukai cafe is at the intersection of two main highways of Lithuania and is famous for its fried dumplings ("koldunai").

July 2019

20190703_141334 Panemune Castle Stopping by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. Here they are, posing very reluctantly for the picture. Date: 07/03/2019 Stopping by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. Here they are, posing very reluctantly for the picture.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_141606 Me at the Panemunes Castle Stopping by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside. Date: 07/03/2019 Stopping by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_141647 R at the Panemune castle Stopping by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside. Date: 07/03/2019 Stopping by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_141823 The inner courtyard of the Panemune castle E and R in the inner, cobblestone-paved courtyard of the Panemune castle. Part of this 17th century castle is still being renovated. It also has a restaurant with open air (as well as indoor) seating, and something that looked like vendor booths. Date: 07/03/2019 E and R in the inner, cobblestone-paved courtyard of the Panemune castle. Part of this 17th century castle is still being renovated. It also has a restaurant with open air (as well as indoor) seating, as well as something that looked like vendor booths. I wasn't sure if the person manning the booth was a vendor of souvenirs or one of the art students (the castle is currently occupied by an art academy) displaying his work.

July 2019

20190703_142011 R in a Panemune castle doorway R in a recessed doorway in the Panemune castle wall. The door wasn't much taller than an 8-year-old child, which puts in a perspective just how much shorter than us the people were in those days. Date: 07/03/2019 R in a recessed doorway in the Panemune castle wall. The door wasn't much taller than an 8-year-old child, which puts in a perspective just how much shorter than us the people were in those days.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_142225 Headless sculpture at the Panemune castle Panemune castle is also a home to an art school, and students' work is displayed throughout the castle grounds. An example is this sculpture of a headless person in a hoodie and jeans was called. I think its head is sitting separately on the ground. Date: 07/03/2019 Panemune castle is also a home to an art school, and students' work is displayed throughout the castle grounds. I don't remember what this sculpture of a headless person in a hoodie and jeans was called. I think its head was sitting separately on the ground, but I didn't notice it at first.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_142316 The kitchen of Panemune castle The restored kitchen of the 17th century castle, complete with pots, pans, utensils and models of chickens roasting on a spit. I'm not sure which era, exactly, this kitchen dates from. Date: 07/03/2019 The restored kitchen of the 17th century castle, complete with pots, pans, utensils and models of chickens roasting on a spit. I'm not sure which era, exactly, this kitchen dates from.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_142847 Climbing the Panemune tower ladder The Panemune castle has a tower that's about 8 floor high, and from the second floor you can only get to the higher floors by a ladder. It is very steep, as you can see. Both kids climbed it at least one level up. As E climbs, R waits his turn. Date: 07/03/2019 The Panemune castle has a tower that's about 8 floor high, and from the second floor you can only get to the higher floors by a ladder. It is very steep, as you can see. Both kids climbed it at least one level up. As E climbs, R waits his turn.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_143015 R climbing the Panemune tower ladder The Panemune castle has a tower that's about 8 floor high, and from the second floor you can only get to the higher floors by a ladder. It is very steep, as you can see. Both kids climbed it at least one level up. Date: 07/03/2019 The Panemune castle has a tower that's about 8 floor high, and from the second floor you can only get to the higher floors by a ladder. It is very steep, as you can see. Both kids climbed it at least one level up.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_143838 The prison room in the Panemune Castle E, R and Ray -- and a silent companion -- in a room in the Panemune castle that used to be the prison. In the center of this room there is a hole leading into a cellar where the prisoners used to be locked up, often for not paying their taxes. Date: 07/03/2019 E, R and Ray -- and a silent companion -- in a room in the Panemune castle that used to be the prison. In the center of this room there is a hole leading into a cellar where the prisoners used to be locked up. Many of them were imprisoned for not paying their taxes.

July 2019

20190703_143848 The prison room in the Panemune Castle E and R in a room in the Panemune castle that used to be the prison: there was not one but two silent companions in this room, the second one lying on the grate covering the entrance into the cellar where prisoners were kept. Date: 07/03/2019 E and R in a room in the Panemune castle that used to be the prison: there was not one but two silent companions in this room, the second one lying on the grate covering the entrance into the cellar, six meters deep, where prisoners were kept. Many of them were locked up for not paying their taxes. The prisoners were lowered into the cellar by ropes.

Are these two sculptures supposed to contribute to historical verisimilitude? If so, I'm not sure what they represent. Or are these the works of the students of the art academy located in this castle? Who knows. I suspect the latter. The boundaries between the museum and the art expo are blurred, which is not uncommon in Lithuania.

20190703_143906 The prison cellar opening The grate that covers the six meters deep prison cellar in the historical prison of the Panemune castle. The sculpture that covers it may be here for historical versimilitude, but I doubt it, because the castle houses an art academy, and this may be a wor Date: 07/03/2019 The grate that covers the six meters deep prison cellar in the historical prison of the Panemune castle. The sculpture that covers it may be here for historical versimilitude, but I doubt it, because the castle houses an art academy, and this may be a work of one of the students. Other students' works are positioned throughout the castle, blending in with the historical exhibits.

The cellar is six meters deep, and the prisoners used to be lowered into it by ropes. Most of them were kept here for not paying their taxes.

20190703_144555 Bread baking ovens at the Panemune castle R looking at the 18th century bread-baking ovens and bakers' tools at the Panemune castle. Date: 07/03/2019 R looking at the 18th century bread-baking ovens and bakers' tools at the Panemune castle.

20190703_152542 The park by the Panemune castle E, Ray and R walking down a path in the Panemune castle park. Like any self-respecting castle of its day, it was surrounded by a park. The path passes between two ponds and circles the castle. Date: 07/03/2019 E, Ray and R walking down a path in the Panemune castle park. Like any self-respecting castle of its day, it was surrounded by a park. The path passes between two ponds and circles the castle.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century, and currently houses an art academy. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_152721 The yet-unrenovated part of Panemune castle The circular path through the park took us past the yet-unrenovated side of the castle. R climbed the hill to see it up close. Date: 07/03/2019 The circular path through the park took us past the yet-unrenovated side of the castle. R climbed the hill to see it up close.

We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century, and currently houses an art academy. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_152946 The side of the Panemune castle that's still under renovation The side of the Panemune castle that's still being renovated. Date: 07/03/2019 The side of the Panemune castle that's still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_153419 E, R and the entire side of the Panemune castle Date: 07/03/2019 We stopped by the Panemune castle on the way from Palanga. The first time I visited it was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. This time we could go inside.

The Panemune castle was first built in the early 1600s, but, like many buildings of its time, fell into neglect in the later centuries. It was rebuilt in the 20th century, and currently houses an art academy. Parts of it were open to visitors, but other parts were still being renovated.

July 2019

20190703_160116 R at the side door of the Raudone castle After visiting the Panemune castle, we drove to the Raudone castle, which is just a few kilometers away. Date: 07/03/2019 After visiting the Panemune castle, we drove to the Raudone castle, which is just a few kilometers away.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb to get to the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. The big circular windows on every floor give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_160158 E and R in the front yard of the Raudone castle Date: 07/03/2019 After visiting the Panemune castle, we drove to the Raudone castle, which is just a few kilometers away.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up to the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. The big circular windows on every floor give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

20190703_161110 Climbing the Raudone castle tower Ray climbs the spiral staircase in the tower of Raudone castle. The circular windows at every floor give a nice view of the surrounding towns. Date: 07/03/2019 Ray climbs the spiral staircase in the tower of Raudone castle. The circular windows at every floor give a nice view of the surrounding towns.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up to the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us.

July 2019

20190703_161158 A view from a tower window of Raudone castle A view from one of those circular windows in the tower of Raudone castle, seen in the previous picture. Date: 07/03/2019 A view from one of those circular windows in the tower of Raudone castle, seen in the previous picture.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. At every floor there are circular windows such as this one, that give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_161520 R under the spiral stairscase in Raudone castle R under the spiral staircase in the tower of Raudone castle. The staircase is currently supported by this sturdy metal pole. Date: 07/03/2019 R under the spiral staircase in the tower of Raudone castle. The staircase is currently supported by this sturdy metal pole.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. At every floor there are circular windows such as this one, that give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_162036 Old school desk in Raudone castle At the bottom floor of Raudone castle, under the stairs, by a thick, arched window, sits an ancient, 2-person school desk,the kind that I used to sit at in my elementary and secondary school days.I hope the school uses modern desks in its classrooms. Date: 07/03/2019 At the bottom floor of Raudone castle, under the stairs, by a thick, arched window, sits an ancient, 2-person school desk, the kind that I used to sit at in my elementary and secondary school days. Raudone castle houses a school, but I it hope it has more modern desks in its actual classrooms. Maybe this is just an old desk that had to be put somewhere, and what better place than a niche under the stairs?

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. At every floor there are circular windows that give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_163222 Raudone castle tower I tried to capture both the entire tower and E at its base, but alas -- the top of the tower got cut off, and only the mere top of E's hair got into the picture. Date: 07/03/2019 I tried to capture both the entire tower and E at its base, but alas -- the top of the tower got cut off, and only the mere top of E's hair got into the picture.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. At every floor there are circular windows that give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_163352 R in the small-leaved linden alley Raudone castle, like many castles, is surrounded by a park. One of the paths through the park is called the small-leaved linden alley, because, I assume, the tall trees that line it on both sides are small-leaved linden, a. k. a. little leaf linden. Date: 07/03/2019 Raudone castle, like many castles, is surrounded by a park. One of the paths through the park is called the small-leaved linden alley, because, I assume, the tall trees that line it on both sides are small-leaved linden, a. k. a. little leaf linden.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. At every floor there are circular windows that give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_163944 R and E in a giant chair The vicinity of Raudone castle has several of these giant wooden slat chairs -- big enough for someone 4 times the human size -- scattered around, primarily on the hills surrounding the castle, but also by the side of the road leading to the castle. Date: 07/03/2019 The vicinity of Raudone castle has several of these giant wooden slat chairs -- big enough for someone 4 times the human size -- scattered around, primarily on the hills surrounding the castle, but also by the side of the road leading to the castle. I'm not sure what's behind this artistic concept.

As with Panemune castle, the first time I visited the Raudone castle was in 2005, when E was still a baby. Now that both kids are of an age when they can form memories, we came here again. 14 years ago both castles were closed, probably for renovation, but now both are open to visitors. Raudone castle houses a school, but this being July, the school was not in session. Nevertheless, we saw an exhibit of students' drawings posted on the hallway walls. All the drawings were made by children around 9-11 years of age, and the overwhelming majority of them involved angels holding cats.

But the main attraction of the castle was a tower with a spiral staircase you could climb up the top. Unlike the ladder in Panemune castle, this staircase wasn't scary for the mere nonathletic mortals, such as us. At every floor there are circular windows that give a nice view of the surrounding villages and of the Nemunas river.

July 2019

20190703_180718 Double rainbow on the road to Vilnius Driving back to Vilnius we saw this spectacular double rainbow. Date: 07/03/2019 Driving back to Vilnius we saw this spectacular double rainbow.

July 2019

20190704_085815 St. Vardan's Armenian Apostolic Church Nestled among old Soviet-style buildings and gleaming new offices along the North shore of the Neris river, sits St. Vardan's Armenian Apostolic Church. This unexpected find reminded me that Vilnius has more ethnic diversity than I've been aware of. Date: 07/04/2019 Well-hidden, nestled among old Soviet-style buildings and gleaming new offices along the North shore of the Neris river, sits St. Vardan's Armenian Apostolic Church. I did not expect to find a church of this denomination in Vilnius, where predominant ethnic and religious minorities historically were Russians, Polish, Belorussians, Jewish, and Crimean Karaites (locally known as Karaim). (Sorry if I left any out.) So for example, I was aware that there was a Karaite Kenesa (a house of worship) in Vilnius, though I don't know if it's still functioning; but I didn't realize that there was a big enough Armenian diaspora here to sustain their own church.

Wikipedia says it was opened in 2006: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armenians_in_Lithuania. I haven't set foot in this neighborhood for probably decades, and I remember it as being somewhat rundown, but now it has modern glass office buildings, like the one in the picture. I first saw this church on Google maps, and I decided to look for it simply because I was intrigued. But it was so difficult to find that at first I thought Google Maps were lying to me. Only after meandering down some nameless asphalt driveways between buildings new and decrepit, between garages and vacant, grassy lots, I was able to find this snuggly-nestled church. Its gate was closed.

20190704_192718 American food in Lithuania On July 4th we found ourselves looking for a place to go celebrate the US Independence Day. We found a pub in Vilnius called Uncle Sam's American Pub. Click the image to read more about American food in Lithuania. Date: 07/04/2019 On July 4th we found ourselves looking for a place to go celebrate the US Independence Day. We found a pub in Vilnius called Uncle Sam's American Pub, and we thought it would definitely have something going on for July 4th. Well, they didn't have much of a program going on;it was pretty much like any day there. Except that it was busier than any ordinary day, which caused me to regret not making reservations.

When we arrived, about half of the tables had a Reserved sign on them. They were all empty. The rest were taken. We were two adults and two kids, and our only option was to sit at something that only partially resembled a table. It was a square post that supported the ceiling, and it had a ledge around it at the height of a a bar table. That ledge could be used as a table. Oh, and the post was covered with mirrors on all sides. So instead of looking at each other, we would each have to stare closely at our own reflections.

Like many restaurants in Lithuania, this one was self-seating. Unlike in most American restaurants, there was no host or hostess to seat you when a table became available. This meant that instead of relaxing until you are shown to your table, you have to be on a constant lookout for a table to become available, and then jostle your way to it to beat anyone else who might be cutting in line. This "system" reminds me too much of Soviet times. Back in the Soviet days, the extreme version of this practice was called "bite counting": people hovered near a table where someone else was sitting, and counted their every bite (perhaps figuratively rather than literally), impatiently waiting for them to finish and get up. Needless to say, this didn't make for a pleasant dining experience for anyone.

So I am still alergic to a practice that requires you to be constantly scanning the room with an eagle eye to see if a table is about to open up. It's ironic that an American-themed restaurant treated me to a distinctly Soviet experience. Except it's not alone in that -- it is sadly typical in Lithuania.

Luckily, a table opened up soon and we seated ourselves.

The rest of our experience there was pretty good. The pub menu approximates that of an American middlebrow restaurant. It is comparable to TGI Friday's, Chili's, and similar brands. It had an extensive selection of burgers named after US states and cities. Some of those burgers differed by the type of meat in ways that made superficial sense -- for example, a Memphis burger had pork ribs in it. I guess that's a nod to the famous Memphis BBQ? But can you actually call it a burger if it has anything other than a beef patty in it? Or is it just a sandwich at that point? The rest of the differences between burgers were insignificant.

They also had some interestingly flavored dressings and dips for appetizers, but I don't remember now what those unusual flavors were. They tasted good, though, even if they weren't what you would find at a TGI Friday.

July 2019

20190705_103139 The Vepriai camp Vepriai is a village in Lithuania where E went to the 10-day summer camp. This is the building where the campers lived and had their activities. Despite the language barrier (E did not learn much Lithuanian in time for the camp) she enjoyed it. Date: 07/05/2019 Vepriai is a village in Lithuania where E went to the 10-day summer camp ("Vepriu stovykla") in July of 2019. This is the building where the campers lived and had their activities. Despite the language barrier (E did not learn much Lithuanian in time for the camp) she enjoyed it. Most of the kids in the camp, majority of which were Lithuanian, spoke good English, so language did not present a barrier.

20190705_103221 Vepriai camp bonfire circle This is a place by the Vepriai camp building where the campers light a bonfire. At least that's my guess. Date: 07/05/2019 This is a place by the Vepriai camp building where the campers light a bonfire. At least that's my guess.

Vepriai is a village in Lithuania where E went to the 10-day summer camp ("Vepriu stovykla") in July of 2019. Despite the language barrier (E did not learn much Lithuanian in time for the camp) she enjoyed it. Most of the kids in the camp, majority of which were Lithuanian, spoke good English, so language did not present a barrier.

20190705_104324 Two storks in a stork nest What would Lithuanian countryside be without storks nesting high up on a utility pole! I saw them on the way from Vepriai after dropping off my daughter at a camp. Date: 07/05/2019 What would Lithuanian countryside be without storks nesting high up on a utility pole! I saw them on the way from Vepriai after dropping off my daughter at a camp.

The road to and from the camp passed through big stretches of countryside, and I was happy to see that the fields were as full of storks as they were in my childhood. We also saw an occasional cat sauntering through the fields, perhaps doing rodent control.

Vepriai is a village in Lithuania where E went to the 10-day summer camp ("Vepriu stovykla") in July of 2019. Despite the language barrier (E did not learn much Lithuanian in time for the camp) she enjoyed it. Most of the kids in the camp, majority of which were Lithuanian, spoke good English, so language did not present a barrier.

20190705_114050 Darius and Girenas stone This big rock is a memorial to two Lithuanian pilots, Darius and Girenas, who flew across the Atlantic in 1933, back when flying across the Atlantic was still a big deal. It's located near a small town called Anyksciai in northern Lithuania. Date: 07/05/2019 After dropping E off at the camp, and since we already were halfway across Lithuania, we decided to take a further detour to the North and visit a small town named Anyksciai. One of its points of interest is the so-called treetop path or canopy path. It's an elevated walkway at the height of treetops.

At the entrance to the canopy path sits this big rock. It's called the Puntukas stone. Stones like this were known as devil's stones in the folk legends; it was said that these stones were dropped by the devil who got tired of carrying them. Carved into the side of the rock is a memorial to two Lithuanian pilots, Darius and Girenas, who flew across the Atlantic in 1933, back when flying across the Atlantic was still a big deal. Unfortunately, their plane crashed somewhere in Germany.

July 2019

20190705_114952 Ray and R on the treetop path The treetop path or canopy path is an elevated walkway at the height of treetops. Well, not literally at the tops of the trees. It's about 2/3rds of the way up the trees, and these are some really tall, old trees. Date: 07/05/2019 After dropping E off at the camp, and since we already were halfway across Lithuania, we decided to take a further detour to the North and visit a small town named Anyksciai. One of its points of interest is the so-called treetop path or canopy path. It's an elevated walkway at the height of treetops. Well, not literally at the tops of the trees. It's about 2/3rds of the way up the trees, and these are some really tall, old trees. In any case, as you walk, you can see the treetops swaying from closer up than you typically see them. If you stand at the bottom of the tree and look up, the trunk of the tree doesn't sway that much. So it's an uncanny feeling to see such a wide range of motion in the treetops all around you.

The walkway ends in a 34 meter-tall observation tower with a view of the surrounding woods and the Sventoji river.

July 2019

20190705_115143 Ray and R on the treetop path There are small observation decks at the bends of the treetop path. Date: 07/05/2019 There are small observation decks at the bends of the treetop path.

After dropping E off at the camp, since we already were halfway across Lithuania, we decided to take a further detour to the North and visit a small town named Anyksciai. One of its points of interest is the so-called treetop path or canopy path. It's an elevated walkway at the height of treetops. Well, it does not literally go through the tops of the trees. It's about 2/3rds of the way up the trees, and these are some really tall, old trees. In any case, as you walk, you can see the treetops swaying from closer up than you typically see them. If you stand at the bottom of the tree and look up, the trunk doesn't sway that much. So it's an uncanny feeling to see such a wide range of motion in the treetops all around you.

The walkway ends in a 34 meter-tall observation tower with a view of the surrounding woods and the Šventoji river.

July 2019

20190705_121431 View from the observation tower stairwell The view of the Sventoji river from the stairwell of the observation tower at the end of the treetop path. Date: 07/05/2019 The view of the Sventoji river from the stairwell of the observation tower at the end of the treetop path.

After dropping E off at the camp, since we already were halfway across Lithuania, we decided to take a further detour to the North and visit a small town named Anyksciai. One of its points of interest is the so-called treetop path or canopy path. It's an elevated walkway at the height of treetops. Well, it does not literally go through the tops of the trees. It's about 2/3rds of the way up the trees, and these are some really tall, old trees. In any case, as you walk, you can see the treetops swaying from closer up than you typically see them. If you stand at the bottom of the tree and look up, the trunk doesn't sway that much. So it's an uncanny feeling to see such a wide range of motion in the treetops all around you.

The walkway ends in a 34 meter-tall observation tower with a view of the surrounding woods and the Šventoji river. The observation deck at the top has binoculars.

July 2019

20190705_121431 View from the observation tower stairwell The view of the Sventoji river from the stairwell of the observation tower at the end of the treetop path. Date: 07/05/2019 The view of the Sventoji river from the stairwell of the observation tower at the end of the treetop path.

After dropping E off at the camp, since we already were halfway across Lithuania, we decided to take a further detour to the North and visit a small town named Anyksciai. One of its points of interest is the so-called treetop path or canopy path. It's an elevated walkway at the height of treetops. Well, it does not literally go through the tops of the trees. It's about 2/3rds of the way up the trees, and these are some really tall, old trees. In any case, as you walk, you can see the treetops swaying from closer up than you typically see them. If you stand at the bottom of the tree and look up, the trunk doesn't sway that much. So it's an uncanny feeling to see such a wide range of motion in the treetops all around you.

The walkway ends in a 34 meter-tall observation tower with a view of the surrounding woods and the Sventoji river. The observation deck at the top has binoculars.

July 2019

20190705_125933 Ray and R on the tiny train After getting down from the treetop path, we got on this toy "train" -- it runs on roads, not rails -- and took a ride to a place nearby called Dainu Parkas (Song Park). It's a small, open-air concert venue. The train stops there for 15 minutes, Date: 07/05/2019 After getting down from the treetop path, we got on this toy "train" -- it runs on roads, not rails -- and took a ride to a place nearby called Dainų Parkas (Song Park). It's a small, open-air concert venue. Though surrounded by woods on all sides, it's is actually close to the town of Anykščiai.

The train stops there for 15 minutes, then goes back. So that's all we did -- got off, walked down to a tiny convenience store / food stand for coffee, found out its coffee machine was broken, walked back and rode the train back.

July 2019

20190706_082310 Gedimino street decorated for the Statehood Day Gedimino street -- the main street in Vilnius downtown -- on the early morning of July 6, 2019, decorated for the Day of Lithuanian Statehood. The colors of the hanging "thingies" blend in the distance into the colors of Lithuanian flag. Date: 07/06/2019 Gedimino street -- the main street in Vilnius downtown -- on the early morning of July 6, 2019, decorated for the Day of Lithuanian Statehood, a. k. a. Coronation Day. The colors of the hanging "thingies" blend in the distance into the colors of Lithuanian flag.

20190706_124344 Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Click the image to read more. Date: 07/06/2019 Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins) and doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life. I actually liked it better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_130142 Days of Living Archeology: tied to a ladder At the Days of Living Archeology we saw this young person tied to something that looks like an inclined ladder -- it probably has a name, but I don't know it -- some kind of medieval punishment or shaming instrument? Date: 07/06/2019 At the Days of Living Archeology we saw this young person tied to something that looks like an inclined ladder -- it probably has a name, but I don't know it -- some kind of medieval punishment or shaming instrument?

Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins) and doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life. I actually liked it better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_130834 Days of Living Archeology: mannequin in pelts A mannequin dressed in animal skins, with a big wooden stick in its hand, representing a person from, perhaps, Stone age? It was displayed in front of one of the crafts booths. Date: 07/06/2019 A mannequin dressed in animal skins, with a big wooden stick in its hand, representing a person from, perhaps, Stone age? It was displayed in front of one of the crafts booths.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernave (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins) and doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. For example, there are demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of ethnic instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_134231 A seaside village from a 1000 years ago A re-enactment of village life from a seaside village from around 9th-11th centuries. According to a posted sign, the pottery in it is from Narva and seashore cultures (Eastern Baltic culture from 5300 to 1750 BC.) I assume those are replicas. Date: 07/06/2019 A re-enactment of village life from a seaside village from around 9th-11th centuries. According to a posted sign, the pottery in it is from Narva and seashore cultures (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narva_culture -- Eastern Baltic culture from 5300 to 1750 BC.) I assume those are replicas.

On the left, two people are guiding a blind person in experiencing the village by touch.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernave (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins) and doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. It features demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of traditional music instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_134242 A seaside village from a 1000 years ago, up close A re-enactment of village life from a seaside village from around 9th-11th centuries: the hut up close. Date: 07/06/2019 A re-enactment of village life from a seaside village from around 9th-11th centuries. According to a posted sign, the pottery in it is from Narva and seashore cultures (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narva_culture/ -- Eastern Baltic culture from 5300 to 1750 BC.) I assume those are replicas.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernave (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins), doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. It features demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of traditional music instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_134702 The yard of the Onogurs The sign above the hut says "Onogurų genties kiemas IX a" -- the yard of an Onogur tribe from the 9th century. The re-enactors were from Hungary. We caught a performance of a Hungarian folk music band Kajan. Date: 07/06/2019 The sign above the hut says "Onogurų genties kiemas IX a" -- the yard of an Onogur tribe from the 9th century. The Onogurs, according to Wikipedia, were Turkic nomadic equestrians (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ono%C4%9Furs). The re-enactors were from Hungary.

We caught a performance of a Hungarian folk music band Kajan. Oddly enough, I couldn't find any information about them on the internet. I found an Ukrainian band also called Kajan, but it's definitely not a folk band.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernave (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins), doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. It features demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of traditional music instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

July 2019

20190706_131655 Days of Living Archeology: folk music concert Lithuanian folk music band "Ugniavijas" performs at the Days of Living Archeology. They played a set of Lithuanian traditional songs about war. It was quite amazing. Date: 07/06/2019 Lithuanian folk music band "Ugniavijas" performs at the Days of Living Archeology. They played a set of Lithuanian traditional songs about war. It was quite amazing.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins) and doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. For example, there are demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of ethnic instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_135734 Tree hollow-based beekeeping R and Ray in front of a tree hollow-based beekeeping exhibit. Date: 07/06/2019 R and Ray in front of a tree hollow-based beekeeping exhibit ("drevinė bitininkystė"). Not sure if I translated it correctly, since I know nothing about beekeeping.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins), doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. It features demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of traditional music instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_144730 Days of Living Archeology: pole-climbing competition A pole-climbing competition at the Days of Living Archeology. Date: 07/06/2019 A pole-climbing competition at the Days of Living Archeology.

Days of Living Archeology in Kernavė (a place on the outskirts of Vilnius) resemble a Renaissance faire, but with its own Lithuanian specifics. Inside the festival grounds there aren't anywhere near as many vendors as at a typical American Ren faire, but many more exhibits. The exhibits are live, in the sense that they are reenactments of life in the Middle Ages (and before); they have people in them dressed in period clothes (sometimes that means animal skins), doing things that people from that time period did in their daily life.

I actually liked this festival better than American Ren faires, because the commercial aspect is smaller, and the educational aspect more prominent. It features demonstrations of traditional crafts -- leatherworking, spinning, weaving, beekeeping, blacksmithing, making of traditional music instruments, and many others.

The festival has several music stages and many food and drink vendors. Most vendors are stationed outside the festival grounds on a street leading to the gate. They sell all sorts of stuff, from artisanal cheeses and smoked meats to ethnic clothing, pottery and knicknacks; there are plenty of stuff for kids, such as wooden swords and shields. So overall, the commercial aspect is definitely there, it's just kept mostly outside the festival perimeter.

20190706_205907 Singing the national anthem in Lukiškių square Crowds gathering in Lukiškių square in Vilnius to sing the Lithuanian national anthem at 9 pm on July 6, Lithuanian Statehood Day. On that day Lithuanians all over the world were getting together to sing the national anthem at 9 pm their time. Date: 07/06/2019 Crowds gathering in Lukiškių square (pronounced LOO-kish-queue) in Vilnius to sing the Lithuanian national anthem at 9 pm on July 6, Lithuanian Statehood Day. On that day Lithuanians all over the world were getting together to sing the national anthem at 9 pm their time.

20190706_220621 Notre Dame cocktail with smoke coming off of it Ray and I checked out the Nomads bar in Vilnius downtown. I ordered a cocktail called Notre Dame. After making it, the bartender set it on fire and covered it with a glass dome. A "too soon" moment. Date: 07/06/2019 Ray and I checked out the Nomads bar in Vilnius downtown. They have cocktails named after the famous places of the world. I ordered a cocktail called Notre Dame. The bartender made it, then set it on fire and covered it with a glass dome. This happened just about a month or two after the Notre Dame fire, and was definitely a "too soon" moment.

The drinks, however, were delicious and the bar was supremely cool. So cool I felt out of place there. Growing up, I could not even imagine that anything in my home city could ever aspire to such stratospheric heights of coolness. Overall it was a place worth visiting.

July 2019

20190707_095654 The ruins on the riverbank While visiting Lithuania this time, I revisited some places I frequented in my childhood, but this time I wanted to see the nooks and corners of familiar spaces that I had never seen before. Click the image for more. Date: 07/07/2019 While visiting Lithuania this time, I revisited some places I frequented in my childhood, but this time I wanted to see the nooks and corners of familiar spaces that I had never seen before. It's like, you live in your city, you go to the same places every day, you walk or ride a bus down the same streets, but you never check what's behind the buildings you pass every day. I used to ride a trolleybus to a music school 3-4 times a week after my regular school classes; the route went up the Kosciuškos street, parallel to the Neris river, but I never checked what was behind the buildings that lined the riverbank. Well, obviously, behind them was the river. But there was also a walkway that went along the backs of those buildings. Yet for whatever reason it just didn't figure into my perception of the world: it was simply missing from my map of the world.

And so when I came to Vilnius this time, I wanted to see what was there. I found a combination of ruins and still-functional buildings, all appearing to have been built sometime around the middle of last century. They were separated from the riverbank by a tall fence, sitting at a distance from the street. I could not tell if they were offices or apartment buildings, and whether they were still in use, except for those that had empty window holes. Such as these.

I like how the buildings are peeking from behind one another, nestled against the hill.

A little further down the riverbank, I found a Japanese garden. It was created by a Lithuanian designer of Japanese gardens who had studied Japanese garden design in Kyoto. Unfortunately, it is only open for a few hours on Sundays, and with our packed schedule I couldn't make it there during the extremely narrow open window.

July 2019

20190707_095725 The walled-off, gated ruins on the riverbank While visiting Lithuania this time, I revisited some places I frequented in my childhood, but this time I wanted to see the nooks and corners of familiar spaces that I had never seen before. Click the image for more. Date: 07/07/2019 While visiting Lithuania this time, I revisited some places I frequented in my childhood, but this time I wanted to see the nooks and corners of familiar spaces that I had never seen before. It's like, you live in your city, you go to the same places every day, you walk or ride a bus down the same streets, but you never check what's behind the buildings you pass every day. I used to ride a trolleybus to a music school 3-4 times a week after my regular school classes; the route went up the Kosciuskos street, parallel to the Neris river, but I never checked what was behind the buildings that lined the riverbank. Well, obviously, behind them was the river. But there was also a walkway that went along the backs of those buildings. Yet for whatever reason it just didn't figure into my perception of the world: it was simply missing from my map of the world.

And so when I came to Vilnius this time, I wanted to see what was there. I found a combination of ruins and still-functional buildings, all appearing to have been built sometime around the middle of last century. They were separated from the riverbank by a tall fence, sitting at a distance from the street. I could not tell if they were offices or apartment buildings, and whether they were still in use, except for those that had empty window holes.

They looked like they could have been luxurious mansions once upon a time, probably before the war and before Soviet times. For example, this one has two pillars decorated with classical Greek motifs, that could have been gate posts. In place of a gate there now is a cardboard sheet with "Danger" graffiti on it. To the left and the right of it might have been pedestrian gates, also patched up with cardboard now.

If I had known about this place as a child -- which is ironic to say, since I passed within just meters of it several days a week -- I definitely would have gone exploring here. I'm sure it wasn't boarded up then, since the state generally didn't fence off decaying structures or construction sites; safety wasn't a high priority back then.

A little further down the riverbank, I found a Japanese garden. It was created by a Lithuanian designer of Japanese gardens who had studied Japanese garden design in Kyoto. Unfortunately, it is only open for a few hours on Sundays, and with our packed schedule I couldn't make it there during the extremely narrow open window.

July 2019

20190707_104929 Šnipiškės: three kinds of buildings The edge of Šnipiškės, a neighborhood in Vilnius, seen from the Kalvarijų street. Three kinds of buildings coexist in this picture: a rickety house from around the end of 19th century; a Soviet-time apartment building, and new, shiny office towers. Date: 07/07/2019 The edge of Šnipiškės, a neighborhood in Vilnius, seen from the Kalvarijų street. Buildings from three different eras coexist in this picture: an old, rickety house in the foreground that could have been built around the end of 19th or beginning of the 20th century; a dilapidated apartment building from the Soviet times, and behind it the new, shiny office towers.

Šnipiškės is a neighborhood smack dab in the middle of the city, surrounded by newfangled glass towers of modern day and factories of the Soviet era, but the time in Šnipiškės seems to have stopped in 19th century. Many houses here don't have running water. Even so, the old houses are disappearing, replaced by modern development; the area is full of construction zones. I walked around and took some pictures, knowing that I might not see these relics of the past when I come back to Lithuania again.

July 2019

20190626_162554 Šnipiškės: a triangular brick house A triangular brick house in the unique Vilnius neighborhood Šnipiškės, where windows still on the first floor, but have been bricked over on the second floor. Date: 06/26/2019 A triangular brick house in the unique Vilnius neighborhood Šnipiškės, where windows still on the first floor, but have been bricked over on the second floor.

Šnipiškės is a neighborhood smack dab in the middle of the city, surrounded by newfangled glass towers of modern day and factories of the Soviet era, but the time in Šnipiškės seems to have stopped in 19th century. Many houses here don't have running water. Even so, the old houses are disappearing, replaced by modern development; the area is full of construction zones. I walked around and took some pictures, knowing that I might not see these relics of the past when I come back to Lithuania again.

July 2019

20190626_164450 An old house in Šnipiškės An old house in Šnipiškės that might have been built around the end of 19th or beginning of 20th century when this neighborhood has first been built. Date: 06/26/2019 An old house in Šnipiškės that might have been built around the end of 19th or beginning of 20th century when this neighborhood has first been built.

Šnipiškės is a neighborhood smack dab in the middle of Vilnius, surrounded by modern-day office towers as well as factories of the Soviet era, but the time in Šnipiškės seems to have stopped in 19th century. Many houses here don't have running water. Even so, the old houses are disappearing, replaced by modern development; the area is full of construction zones. I walked around and took some pictures, knowing I might not see these relics of the past when I come back to Lithuania again.

July 2019

20190626_171718 Repeating diagonal lines I like the almost-parallel diagonal lines of this picture of a house on Kalvarijų street in Vilnius. I like the mystery of the naked brick patch of wall where something used to be, but is no more. Date: 06/26/2019 I like the almost-parallel diagonal lines of this picture of a house on Kalvarijų street in Vilnius. I like the mystery of the naked brick patch of wall where something used to be, but is no more. Was there a garage attached to this wall that at some point was torn down, leaving only a trapezoid of exposed brick wall? And to the right of it, the diagonal stairwell mimics the line of the roof at almost the same angle.

20190707_140636 A pair of bunker entrances A pair of entrances into old Polish military bunkers in the Antakalnis district of Vilnius. Click the image to read more. Date: 07/07/2019 As I mentioned before, when I visited my hometown, Vilnius, this time, I explored some nooks and crannies I haven't visited before. Sometime within the last year I heard there was a set of abandoned military bunkers somewhere in the city. So of course I had to go and find them.

I started looking for more information about them, and discovered that lo and behold, there is not one, but a few sets -- maybe 6 or 7 total -- of bunkers all around Vilnius. All of them were build around 1920-1930s by the Polish (that had occupied Vilnius at the time) to defend the city against the Soviets. That didn't work very well: when the Soviets invaded Vilnius, not a single shot was fired from the bunkers.

The first set of bunkers I visited was the easiest to find, and the easiest to find information about on the internet. They are located in the Sapieginė park, in the Antakalnis neighborhood, fairly close to the beginning of the exploratory path through the park (Sapieginės pažintinis takas). They face the path and are impossible to miss if you just follow the path.

This set of bunkers is currently inhabited by several endangered species of bats. They make their winter home here. For their protection the entrances into the bunkers have permanent bars on them; they stay locked even in summer when the bats are presumably elsewhere.

In this place, the bunkers come in pairs. All the pairs are located in the hillside along one of the main paths through the park. They were used for ammunition storage.

There are more pictures of the bunkers in Wikimedia.

July 2019

20190707_140123 A bunker entrance corridor The bunker entrances have iron bar doors on them. To protect the peace of endangered bat species that winter there, the doors are always locked (even in summer). So the closest look I could get inside was through the bars. This was the view I found. Date: 07/07/2019 The bunker entrances have iron bar doors on them. The doors are always locked. So the closest look I could get inside was through the bars. This was the view I found.

As I mentioned before, when I visited my hometown, Vilnius, this time, I explored some nooks and crannies I haven't visited before. Sometime within the last year I heard there was a set of abandoned military bunkers somewhere in the city. So of course I had to go and find them.

I started looking for more information about them, and discovered that lo and behold, there is not one, but a few sets -- maybe 6 or 7 total -- of bunkers all around Vilnius. All of them were build around 1920-1930s by the Polish (that had occupied Vilnius at the time) to defend the city against the Soviets. That didn't work very well: when the Soviets invaded Vilnius, not a single shot was fired from the bunkers.

The first set of bunkers I visited was the easiest to find, and the easiest to find information about on the internet. They are located in the Sapieginė park, in the Antakalnis neighborhood, fairly close to the beginning of the exploratory path through the park (Sapieginės pažintinis takas). They face the path and are impossible to miss if you just follow the path.

This set of bunkers is currently inhabited by several endangered species of bats. They make their winter home here. For their protection the entrances into the bunkers have permanent bars on them; they stay locked even in summer when the bats are presumably elsewhere.

In this place, the bunkers come in pairs. All the pairs are located in the hillside along one of the main paths through the park. They were used for ammunition storage.

There are more pictures of the bunkers in Wikimedia.

July 2019

20190707_140327 An outline of the Polish eagle above the bunker entrance The bunker entrances still have outlines of the eagle, a coat of arms of Poland, that used to decorate them back in the day. The bunkers were build around 1920 - 1930 by the Polish army, which was occupying Vilnius at that time. Date: 07/07/2019 The bunker entrances still have outlines of the eagle, a coat of arms of Poland, that used to decorate them back in the day when the bunkers were built.

As I mentioned before, when I visited my hometown, Vilnius, this time, I explored some nooks and crannies I haven't visited before. Sometime within the last year I heard there was a set of abandoned military bunkers somewhere in the city. So of course I had to go and find them.

I started looking for more information about them, and discovered that lo and behold, there is not one, but a few sets -- maybe 6 or 7 total -- of bunkers all around Vilnius. All of them were build around 1920-1930s by the Polish (that had occupied Vilnius at the time) to defend the city against the Soviets. That didn't work very well: when the Soviets invaded Vilnius, not a single shot was fired from the bunkers.

The first set of bunkers I visited was the easiest to find, and the easiest to find information about on the internet. They are located in the Sapieginė park, in the Antakalnis neighborhood, fairly close to the beginning of the exploratory path through the park (Sapieginės pažintinis takas). They face the path and are impossible to miss if you just follow the path.

This set of bunkers is currently inhabited by several endangered species of bats. They make their winter home here. For their protection the entrances into the bunkers have permanent bars on them; they stay locked even in summer when the bats are presumably elsewhere.

In this place, the bunkers come in pairs. All the pairs are located in the hillside along one of the main paths through the park. They were used for ammunition storage.

July 2019

20190707_141413 A bunker corridor with... water taps in the walls? Another bunker's entrance corridor had these iron things sticking out from the walls; they resemble water taps. I wonder if the Polish had actually installed a water system in the bunkers. Date: 07/07/2019 Another bunker's entrance corridor had these iron things sticking out from the walls; they resemble water taps. I wonder if the Polish had actually installed a water system in the bunkers.

As I mentioned before, when I visited my hometown, Vilnius, this time, I explored some nooks and crannies I haven't visited before. Sometime within the last year I heard there was a set of abandoned military bunkers somewhere in the city. So of course I had to go and find them.

I started looking for more information about them, and discovered that lo and behold, there is not one, but a few sets -- maybe 6 or 7 total -- of bunkers all around Vilnius. All of them were build around 1920-1930s by the Polish (that had occupied Vilnius at the time) to defend the city against the Soviets. That didn't work very well: when the Soviets invaded Vilnius, not a single shot was fired from the bunkers.

The first set of bunkers I visited was the easiest to find, and the easiest to find information about on the internet. They are located in the Sapieginė park, in the Antakalnis neighborhood, fairly close to the beginning of the exploratory path through the park (Sapieginės pažintinis takas). They face the path and are impossible to miss if you just follow the path.

This set of bunkers is currently inhabited by several endangered species of bats. They make their winter home here. For their protection the entrances into the bunkers have permanent bars on them; they stay locked even in summer when the bats are presumably elsewhere.

In this place, the bunkers come in pairs. All the pairs are located in the hillside along one of the main paths through the park. They were used for ammunition storage.

July 2019

20190707_142241 Another pair of bunkers The last pair of bunkers, set into the lush hillside. Date: 07/07/2019 The last pair of bunkers, set into the lush hillside.

As I mentioned before, when I visited my hometown, Vilnius, this time, I explored some nooks and crannies I haven't visited before. Sometime within the last year I heard there was a set of abandoned military bunkers somewhere in the city. So of course I had to go and find them.

I started looking for more information about them, and discovered that lo and behold, there is not one, but a few sets -- maybe 6 or 7 total -- of bunkers all around Vilnius. All of them were build around 1920-1930s by the Polish (that had occupied Vilnius at the time) to defend the city against the Soviets. That didn't work very well: when the Soviets invaded Vilnius, not a single shot was fired from the bunkers.

The first set of bunkers I visited was the easiest to find, and the easiest to find information about on the internet. They are located in the Sapieginė park, in the Antakalnis neighborhood, fairly close to the beginning of the exploratory path through the park (Sapieginės pažintinis takas). They face the path and are impossible to miss if you just follow the path.

This set of bunkers is currently inhabited by several endangered species of bats. They make their winter home here. For their protection the entrances into the bunkers have permanent bars on them; they stay locked even in summer when the bats are presumably elsewhere.

In this place, the bunkers come in pairs. All the pairs are located in the hillside along one of the main paths through the park. They were used for ammunition storage.

July 2019

20190707_160254 Old abandoned house in Vilnius Old Town Old abandoned house, possibly on Šv. Ignoto street, close to the Dominican monastery, if I recall correctly. I would think this house has historical value, like many buildings in the heart of Vilnius Old Town, but is not being preserved or renovated. Date: 07/07/2019 Old abandoned house, possibly on Šv. Ignoto street, close to the Dominican monastery, if I recall correctly. I would think this house has historical value, like many buildings in the heart of Vilnius Old Town, but is not being preserved or renovated.

July 2019

20190707_160342 Exposed underground ruins in Vilnius Old Town A hole in the ground in Vilnius Old Town on Sv. Ignoto street (if I remember correctly), exposing basement-level ruins of what were possibly historical buildings. Don't know if something new was being built here, or if those ruins will be preserved. Date: 07/07/2019 A hole in the ground in Vilnius Old Town on Sv. Ignoto street (if I remember correctly), exposing basement-level ruins of what were possibly historical buildings. I wasn't sure if something new was being built here, or if those ruins will be preserved -- or left to decay.

July 2019

20190707_160748 A library in a renovated historical building in Vilnius Old Town Just a few meters away from the ruins of the previous picture, on Šv. Ignoto street in Vilnius Old Town, sits the library of the Lithuanian Military Academy. Similar red brick as in the ruins, yet this building is nicely renovated. Date: 07/07/2019 Just a few meters away from the ruins of the previous picture, on Sv. Ignoto street in Vilnius Old Town, sits the library of the Lithuanian Military Academy. Similar red brick as in the ruins, yet this building is nicely renovated.

July 2019

20190707_202434 Veggie burger with a beets/feta patty At the Drama Burger in Vilnius I ate the most unusual veggie burger I ever had: its patty was made of beets and feta cheese mixture. It was delicious. Ray had a more conventional burger made of meat, and it was also good. Date: 07/07/2019 At the Drama Burger in Vilnius I ate the most unusual veggie burger I ever had: its patty was made of beets and feta cheese mixture. It was delicious. Ray had a more conventional burger made of meat, and it was also good.

Drama Burger is a little more upscale than a fast food place, but what I liked about it was a detail that's ubiquitous is fast food places in the US: a water fountain. They are surprisingly uncommon in Lithuania. Usually in Lithuania, if you want water with your meal, you have to buy either bottled water, or a glass of fruit-flavored water that has slices of lemons or oranges in it. This was the first place I've ever been where you could get free, plain water from a fountain. Coffeeshops have water fountains, however, so I'm mystified why fast food places don't.

July 2019

20190708_133433 A restaurant courtyard in Vilnius Old Town A restaurant courtyard in Vilnius Old Town on Šv. Mykolo (St. Michael) street. Date: 07/08/2019 A restaurant courtyard in Vilnius Old Town on Šv. Mykolo (St. Michael) street.

July 2019

20190708_135204 Užupis bridge Užupis bridge -- a bridge over Vilnia river at Užupio street; Užupis is a neighborhood in Vilnius whose name literally means "[a place] behind the river". The church on the other side is an orthodox cathedral of Ascension of the Mother of God. Date: 07/08/2019 Užupis bridge -- a bridge over Vilnia river at Užupio street; Užupis is a neighborhood in Vilnius whose name literally means "[a place] behind the river". The church on the other side is an orthodox cathedral of Ascension of the Mother of God.

20190708_144627 The former brewery of Markučiai It looks like a part of this defunct brewery of Markučiai (a neighborhood on the eastern outskirts of Vilnius), established in the late 1800s, was converted to a residential or office space. Across the breezeway from it there is a standalone modern apartm Date: 07/08/2019 On my mission to visit the neighborhoods of my hometown that I rarely set foot into even when I lived here, I set out on a bus to Markučiai. It's a neighborhood on the eastern outskirts of Vilnius. Most of it still looks rural. But real estate developers have already discovered it and are taking advantage of the fact that it's situated on a set of hills that provide good views of downtown. Already there are luxury apartment homes springing up here.

Here too, like in the US, there is a trend of converting old factories to lofts. It looks like a part of this defunct brewery, established in the late 1800s, was converted to a residential or office space. Across the breezeway from it there is a standalone modern apartment building.

20190708_144547 The former brewery of Markučiai and a new apartment complex The breezeway between the old brewery and the new apartment complex. Halfway up the old brewery wall there is a modern office or residential space tacked on to it. Date: 07/08/2019 The breezeway between the old brewery and the new apartment complex. Halfway up the old brewery wall there is a modern office or residential space tacked on to it.

On my mission to visit the neighborhoods of my hometown that I rarely set foot into even when I lived here, I set out on a bus to Markučiai. It's a neighborhood on the eastern outskirts of Vilnius. Most of it still looks rural. But real estate developers have already discovered it and are taking advantage of the fact that it's situated on a set of hills that provide good views of downtown. Already there are luxury apartment homes springing up here.

Here too, like in the US, there is a trend of converting old factories to lofts. It looks like a part of this defunct brewery, established in the late 1800s, was converted to an office or residential space. Across the breezeway from it there is a standalone modern apartment building.

July 2019

20190708_144926 The ruins of Markučiai Despite the new apartment buildings going up, there are still plenty of ruins in Markučiai. I love ruins in general, and I take pictures of old Soviet era ruins wherever I can, because they are disappearing very quickly from the face of Vilnius. Date: 07/08/2019 Despite the new apartment buildings going up, there are still plenty of ruins in Markučiai. I love ruins in general, and I take pictures of old Soviet era ruins wherever I can, because they are disappearing very quickly from the face of Vilnius.

On my mission to visit the neighborhoods of my hometown that I rarely set foot into even when I lived here, I set out on a bus to Markučiai. It's a neighborhood on the eastern outskirts of Vilnius. Most of it still looks rural. But real estate developers have already discovered it and are taking advantage of the fact that it's situated on a set of hills that provide good views of downtown. Already there are luxury apartment homes springing up here.

Here too, like in the US, there is a trend of converting old factories to lofts, which is what I suspect is happening to the defunct late-1800s brewery, shown in the previous pictures.

July 2019

20190709_160956 Beach bar and lifeguard station in Preila We arrived to Preila -- a small village in Curonian Spit -- on a cloudy, blustery day when the temperature barely rose above 60 F. It wasn't a good day for swimming, but it was great for hanging out in a tiny, cozy and chill beach bar. Date: 07/09/2019 We arrived to Preila -- a small village in Curonian Spit -- on a cloudy, blustery day when the temperature barely rose above 60 F. That was July in Lithuania the way I remembered it. It wasn't a good day for swimming, but it was great for hanging out in a tiny cozy and chill bar in a building that also doubles as a lifeguard station. That's Curonian Lagoon in the distance.

July 2019

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