Uzupis, a neighborhood in Vilnius, Lithuania - a land of contrasts (2004

Trips to Lithuania

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Uzupis, a neighborhood in Vilnius, Lithuania - a land of contrasts (2004 - 2009)

Uzupis (prounounced OO-zhoo-pis) approximately means "a place behind the river". It's said to have a mystical appeal. It's full of gothy-looking ruins and old buildings. As in most of the older parts of Vilnius, its architecture is irregular: there are houses built next to and on older houses; curvy, zigzaging courtyards that turn into alleys and disappear into cul-de-sacs; the whole feel of ice floes piled upon one another, which is what I love Vilnius for. But the Uzupis buildings are older and have even more character than those in the rest of the city, and they are mixed with scenic vistas of tree-lined hills and Vilnia river.

That, and the closeness to the City Center and Old Town, makes it a piece of prime real estate. In Uzupis one can see modern apartment complexes being built right next to old, dilapidated houses with empty eye sockets of broken windows. It may be the haunted, "goth" feel of the ruins that attracts artists, many of which have their workshops here. The artists have even formed their own "Republic of Uzupis". But it still has some of its old population: the poor, the jobless, the alcoholics, the addicted. People who wander around with touristy looks on their faces, like S and I did, are likely to become targets of bums begging money "for cigarettes". S actually gave an old guy a couple of litas (Lithuanian currency), maybe because the guy had a cute puppy. :-)

Well, that was in 2004 -- 2005. With all the rapid gentrification going on, some of the sights captured in these pictures may no longer exist.

Date: 12/26/2008

Owner: Elze

Size: 22 items

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CIMG0385 The angel of Uzupis

This is the "nice", restored part of Uzupis.

Date: 09/01/2005

CIMG0386 The ruins in the angel square

Picturesque ruins right next to the angel statue in Uzupis, shown in the previous picture.

Date: 09/01/2005

CIMG0413 Me in a cafe in Uzupis

This is me in a cafe called "Prie angelo" ("By the Angel") in September of 2005. The cafe is next to the angel sculpture seen in the previous image. The odd-shaped thing behind me might be a part of an old structure uncovered during th

Date: 09/01/2005

CIMG0414 S in front of the Republic of Uzupis sign

The Republic of Uzupis is an artist compound. This "republic" has its own tongue-in-cheek constitution, and it's written on the three metal sheets in Lithuanian, English and one other language. The sheets are nailed to the wall of the compound.

Date: 09/01/2005

p0000385 A round structure in Uzupis (May of 2004)

Just what is this round structure in Uzupis? That's a question that has tormented greater minds than mine. It certainly wasn't meant to be lived in. To me it looks like it could have been an exit from a bomb shelter, but what do I know.

Date: 01/07/1999

CIMG0376 A cafe on the Vilnia river

in the Uzupis district in Vilnius, Lithuania in September of 2005

Date: 09/01/2005

CIMG0712 An iron bridge in Uzupis

A bridge-like structure over Vilnia river in Vilnius, Lithuania. Probably not for human use.

Date: 09/10/2005

CIMG0627 A bridge over Vilnia river

September of 2005

Date: 09/08/2005

P1060838 A mermaid in a brick arch

similar to the one in the previous picture. This is a different part of the riverbank, and a different bridge. July 2009.

Date: 07/15/2009

CIMG0388 Stairs and brick

What I call the architecture of accretion -- structures of mysterious purpose fused onto other structures -- that contributes so much to the charm of Uzupis, and Vilnius in general.

Date: 09/01/2005

CIMG0380 Castle-shaped ruins

Ruins of an old house in Uzupis that accidentally ended up shaped a little like a castle.

Date: 09/01/2005

P1060616 More ruins in Uzupis

Empty, abandoned houses. Had not yet been torn down and gentrified as of July of 2009.

Date: 07/10/2009

CIMG0399 Arc and alley

This alley appears to be leading into ruins, but if you follow it, you find yourself at the top of a hill that opens up beautiful views of Vilnius old town (see next image). One of the little secrets Uzupis is full of.

Date: 09/01/2005

P1060620 A house on the right side of the alley

An empty, abandoned house on the right side of the alley shown in the previous image. When I was taking these pictures, I heard voices -- it sounded like there were people partying in the ruins, though I didn't see them. July 2009.

Date: 07/10/2009

CIMG0396 Church in the distance

A view of Vilnius Old Town that opens up if you go down the alley shown in the previous two images. Those red roofs and spires are St. Ann's church and Bernardine monastery.

Date: 09/01/2005

CIMG2786 Bernardine monastery

A closer view of the church shown in the previous image. That's St. Ann's church and Bernardine monastery.

Date: 05/22/2006

CIMG2800 Church roofs, seen from Tores cafe

There is a cafe called Tores in the Uzupis neighborhood of Vilnius. Its patio (or should I say terrace?) offers breathtaking views of Vilnius Old Town, such as this. The red roofs and spires belong to St. Ann's church and the Bernardine monastery.

Date: 05/23/2006

CIMG2731 A segment of a winged wall in Užupis

This and the next picture show what I call a "wall with wings". I found it in the Uzupis neighborhood of Vilnius, Lithuania. As you see, on top of the wall there is another house.

Date: 05/22/2006

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